As many of you may know, I am on the E-Groups message borad for the Milwuakee Road called MILW. www.egroups.com/group/MILW It is a great sorce of stories and info about the Milwuakee Road. There are lots of great people that cover everything from young people just getting into model railroading and rail fanning to people that worked for the MILW in the days of steam and deisel! i can't recamend it enough. Check it out, its free. This addtion to our page is beacuase so many people were interested in the Upper Peninsula, iron ore, and Fairbanks Morse.
FM: H-16-66 "Baby Trainmaster"
This conversion is based on a few different H-16-66 kitbashes. Model Railroader did two that I remember. I've done both, and do not recommend the first one. The shell conversion in the December 1986 issue is the best and easiest. There is a few tips to improve upon it to follow. The real time saver comes in the frame conversion. Details to follow. If you ever wanted to try a H-16-66, go for it. It is not that hard! Thank you Bob Q for the tips on the frame!!
H-16-66 Facts: Fairbanks Morse "Baby Trainmaster" was built in Beliot, WI. From 1/51 to 10/58. There were four different car bodies used on the babies. This article with cover the last two. One word of advise, have photos of any engine that you want to model. There were only 58 H-16-66's made and there were many different variations of louvers, head light,and mars light (if any) placement The following will cover most of the units built.
Baby Facts
|
Phase
|
Date Built
|
Railroad
|
1st Road #
|
2nd Road #
|
3rd Road #
|
4th Road #
|
|
1a
|
1/51
|
C&NW
|
1510-1511
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
1a
|
2/51
|
C&NW
|
1512-1514
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
1a
|
2/51
|
CStPM&O
|
150
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
1b
|
10-11/52
|
C&NW
|
1605-1612
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
1b
|
7/53
|
CStPM&O
|
168-172
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
1b
|
7/53
|
C&NW
|
1668-1669
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
1b
|
7/53
|
C&NW
|
1670-1673
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
2a
|
8/53
|
MILW
|
2125-2127
|
550-552
|
-
|
527-529
|
|
2a
|
9/53
|
MILW
|
2128-2130
|
553-555
|
547-549
|
524-526
|
|
2a
|
7-8/54
|
C&NW
|
1674-1683
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
2b
|
9-10/55
|
C&NW
|
1691-1693
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
2b
|
9/55
|
C&NW
|
1694-1695
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
2b
|
8-9/55
|
C&NW
|
1696-1699
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
2b
|
9/55
|
C&NW
|
1700
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
2b
|
6/56
|
C&NW
|
1901-1903
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
2b
|
6/56
|
C&NW
|
1904-1906
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
2b
|
1/58
|
Alcoa/SCC
|
721001
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
|
2b
|
10/58
|
US-TVA
|
24
|
-
|
-
|
-
|
H-16-66 Roster information and drawing from "Issue 56 Extra 2200 South"
The Conversion:
1) Shell preparation
Before doing anything major to the shell, make sure that all of the paint is stripped off. I recommend using Scale Coat’s paint remover for this. It has the least amount of effect on the plastic. Remove any unwanted molded on details such as grab irons, coupler lift bar brackets etc. Sand smooth all area where details were removed. Drill the necessary holes for mounting new details. Also, drill through the hand rail stanchion holes so that the gluing of the stanchions can be done from the inside.
2) Head light relocation
Both C&NW and MILW head lights are in different locations than the Athearn shell. Plug and fill the head light on the shell. Sand smooth. Please refer to prototype photos of the unit you wish to model for proper location of headlights. I used the Cal scale #396 for the new head light.
3) Shortening the shell
Remember one thing! You are shortening the shell a scale 4 feet. Model Railroader’s article is straight foreword. I don’t recommend the file treatment for this. Finish the cut by sanding with sand paper laid on top of a piece of glass. In doing it this way, you will end up with a joint that is true and straight. This way will eliminate most of the filling and sanding. The side will match up perfectly, but the top will not. This is because of deformation caused in the molding process. This should be the only area that required filling and sanding. If the two pieces of shell fit together straight - glue them together.
4) Shortening the frame
Before doing anything more with the shell, I would shorten the frame. Refer to the sketch for how to do it. I don’t agree with how the guy did it in the Model Railroader article at all. He made a lot of work out of it and I think that his truck spacing is wrong. You will be able to test fit the frame pieces in the shell before final assembly of the frame. If any adjustments are to be made you can do it now. Remember the 4 scale feet! If you did things right it will go together with no problems. In a nut-shell, the frame is very easy. Make the cuts, mill down and epoxy back together. The 4 feet removed from the shell will give you the overlap needed on the frame to "glue" it back together. I used a bench grinder to to do the milling and some stuff called "Liquid Steel" to epoxy the frame together.
Step 1: Extend flat surface by milling for reversal of motor.
Step 2: Mill out all areas flat for mounting front frame piece.
Step 3: Mill out cast gussets and brake frame in two pieces
Step 4: To mount the two pieces of frames together, drill and tap 4 or 6 holes for 00-90 screws.
Step 5: Shorten fuel tank to a scale 6' 9" long.
Step 6: Remove bottom tank bulge for MILW units only - leave for CNW units.
Step 7: Glue and screw the frame together. To get the correct spacing for the new frame, you can epoxy (carefully) the frame pieces and put the shell on. That way you know that the mounting pins will line up. If you wish to drill and tap at this piont - it should work out just fine.
If you look closely, you can see the overlapped frame piece that has been epoxied together. This conversion is now almost ten years old, and shows no signs of coming undone.
5) Handrails and stanchions
Now is the time to make your handrails and fit them to the shell. If you elect to use Smoky Valley hand rails and stanchions, solder them together. Note that there is a 6" dip in the hand rails on the long hood. See drawing - DRAWING IS NOT TO SCALE!!!!
6) Building the shelves below the walkway:
The Model Railroader article suggests that these shelves be cut out before gluing the two pieces of shells together. But, strongly recommend that it is done afterwards. In doing cuts of this nature, I drill a line of holes along the cut line. Leave enough material for finishing the hole. Then cut the material out with your favorite Xacto knife. Finish the opening and when you are satisfied - box in the opening with styrene. Be careful, allow room for the frame. Relocate fuel filler cutout.
7) Right radiator screen removal
Babies only had three radiators, the H-24-66 had four. Please refer to prototype photos. The back right radiator needs to be sheeted over. Remove all details with an Xacto knife. I cut .005" styrene and plated over the radiator rather than cutting it out and filling with a thicker styrene. If you wish to, cut out the remaining radiators and use Detail Associates parts to fill in fans and screens.
8) Dynamic Brake openings
Refer to prototype photos - some had them and some didn’t. I did the same thing as the radiators. Shave off and plate over or cut out and use Detail Associates parts to replace screens if you wish.
9) Paint and decal
10) Add details and hand rails
11) Motorizing the frame
There are many schools of repowering . Use your favorite one. If you use the Athearn motor and drives, the motor will be installed turned around. That’s all!!
Detail Parts List
Cal Scale:
#396 headlight
Details West:
#173 blat horn
#186 M-32 horn (if needed)
#162 mars light (ifneeded)
Details Associates:
#1508 MU hoses
#2712 grills
#2713 screens
#2304 wind deflectors
#1301 sunshade
